Spire Four

September 2, 2006

After breaking in Matt on Balcony Point, I decided he deserved to do an easy but very rewarding climb so he and I headed over to climb Spire Four.  This would be my fourth time on the climb, but I hadn't climbed it in over four years.  I was anxious not only to show Matt one of the coolest summits around, but also to see how much easier the route would seem four years later.

It turned out that getting to the climb was the crux for us.  The approach to the 3-4 gully from the north involves some fourth or low fifth class climbing.  I'd been up it before (years ago) and didn't remember it being all that difficult so I planned on just scrambling up it.  Once I was on it, however, I realized it wasn't quite as easy as I'd thought--especially with a pack on and approach shoes!  I was especially concerned about Matt following me because (if memory serves me right) his dog had eaten his good approach shoes and I knew he was wearing some floppy old Salomons that just suck on rock.  At any rate, I made it to the top of the notch in one piece, threw a rope down to Matt for a quick belay, and he soon joined me at the "base" of the climb.

The climb itself went without a hitch.  Just for fun I timed myself on climbing the route and rigging the anchors.  I was on belay for a total of 17 minutes.  I'm not sure how long it took the last time I climbed this route, but I'm sure that this was much quicker! 

Matt followed without any trouble.  I think he got a kick out of the Wormhole!  I certainly enjoyed watching him wiggle through.  Below are some photos from the climb.